| In 1912, Wilbur L. Scoville, a pharmacist, devised the first modern technique for measuring a pepper's bite. The measure is still used to this day by spice companies and sauce manufacturers everywhere. In fact, if all known peppers were measured using this technique, their scale of pungency would range from 0 Scoville units, for the bell pepper, to 350,000 units, for the Mexican habanero. Scoville tried first to measure pungency by studying how pepper extract reacted with other chemicals but concluded that none was sensitive enough to offer readings with any degree of precision. He found that the tongue, on the other hand, was far more sensitive, capable of detecting capsaicin, the chemical in hot peppers that is responsible for their heat, dissolved in a solution a million times its volume; no laboratory test could detect such a low concentration. Of course, this brought sneers from his peers. What could be more subjective than the tongue, they questioned. But Scoville insisted that although physiological tests are tabooed in some quarters, the tongue is sensitive to less than a millionth of a grain, and that certainly has an advantage. Scoville's method was simple. He soaked each different variety of pepper separately in alcohol overnight. Because capsaicin is soluble in alcohol, the soaking extracted the pungent chemicals from the pod. Then he took a precise measure of the extract and to it added sweetened water in definite proportions until the mixture is distinct but weak pungency was barely predictable on his tongue. In the case of Japan chiles, it took sweetened water in volumes between 20,000 to 30,000 times the pepper extract before the pungency was barely discernable. He thus rated the Japan chiles 20,000 to 30,000 Scoville Heat Units. Zanzibar chiles were rated 40,000 to 50,000, and Mombasa chiles 50,000 to 100,000. Scoville's name has since become closely associated with the measure of pungency, but the oral test is now being slowly replaced by a modern machine [High Pressure Liquid Chromatograph, or HPLC] that is as sensitive as the human tongue. One problem with Scoville's test is that no two tongues ever agreed, so the panelists' estimates had to be averaged. Another problem was that the number of tests a panelist could do in a day was limited. Because the tongue would temporarily get used to a given level of pungency, it had to be given rest to cool down before resuming the task. In an eight hour period, no more than 6 samples could be run through the panel. The machine has now replaced the human testing panel. Thirty samples can now be tested within 8 hours, and accuracy is not a concern. And because the cost of a pepper is directly related to the pepper's heat, there is less bargaining now that the heat can be tested with predictability. The American Spice Trade Association, an industry trade group, is a strong proponent of the machine. And the HPLC machine measurements are expressed in ASTA units, the acronym of the trade group. But Scoville's name has become so well established that the association has had as much success in making people adopt the scale as the US has in adopting the metric system. The companies that do employ the modern instrument use a conversion scale to express ASTA units in familiar Scoville units. Such is Scoville's legacy. Chiles Rellenos Ingredients eight to ten 7-inch green chilies [Anaheims, poblanos, or Big Jims]*, roasted and peeled, seeds intact, stems attached [procedure follows] 3/4 pound grated Chihuahua con Jalapeño cheese* [about 3 cups] 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper vegetable shortening for frying 4 large egg yolks, beaten 4 large egg whites, beaten until foamy 1/4 pound grated Chihuahua con Jalapeño cheese [about 1 cup] Accompaniment: Roasted Tomato sauce [recipe follows] *available at Hispanic markets, specialty foods shops, and some grocery stores. Method Preheat broiler Carefully cut a lengthwise slit in each chile and stuff with some Chihuahua cheese. Combine flour, salt, and pepper and dredge chilies. In a large saucepan, heat 1/2 inch shortening to 375°F. on a deep-fat thermometer. Fold yolks into egg whites. Working with 2 chilies at a time, using a slotted spoon, dip chilies into eggs and fry, turning occasionally, until golden, no more than a couple of minutes. With a slotted spoon transfer chilies [careful — they are delicate!] to paper towels to drain. Arrange chilies on a flameproof plate and sprinkle with Chihuahua cheese. Broil chilies just long enough to melt cheese and serve immediately, accompanied by Roasted Tomato sauce, if desired. To roast peppers Using a long-handled fork, char peppers over an open flame or on a rack set over an electric burner, turning, until skins are blackened, 4 to 6 minutes. [Alternatively, broil peppers on rack of a broiler pan under a preheat broiler about 2 inches from heat, turning every 5 minutes, 15 to 20 minutes, or until skins are blistered and charred]. Transfer peppers to a bowl and let stand, covered, until cool enough to handle. Keeping peppers whole, peel them, starting at blossom end. Cut off tops and discard seeds and ribs. Roasted Tomato Sauce Ingredients 4 large plum tomatoes, quartered 1/2 small onion, coarsely chopped 2 large garlic cloves, peeled 1 small jalapeño chili, halved 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled 1 cup chicken stock Method Preheat oven to 375°F. Combine first 5 ingredients in 8-inch square baking dish. Pour 1/2 cup stock over vegetables. Bake until vegetables are very tender, about 40 minutes. Transfer mixture to processor and puree until smooth, adding additional broth as necessary to thin to sauce consistency. Season to taste with salt. Can be prepared 2 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring sauce to simmer and serve. tom saaristo © Thomas Saaristo All Rights Reserved tom@tomsaaristo.com |
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| Scoville Scale |