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| Salmon |
| Salmon was an important food to many early American Indians whose superstitions prevented certain tribe members from handling or eating the fish lest they anger its spirit and cause it to leave their waters forever. Salmon are anadromous, meaning that they migrate from their saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. Over the years, some salmon have become landlocked in freshwater lakes. In general, the flesh of those salmon is less flavorful than that of their sea-running relatives. There is an increasing volume of aquacultured salmon being imported into the United States today — most of it from Norway, although Chile's salmon farming industry is now giving the Norwegians some competition. Although farmed salmon are raised in salt water, their flesh doesn't have the same rich nuances in flavor and texture as that of their wild relations. There are several varieties of North American salmon. All but one are found off the Pacific coast, and about 90 percent come from Alaskan waters. Among the best Pacific salmon is the superior Chinook or king salmon, which can reach up to 120 pounds. The color of its high-fat, soft-textured flesh ranges from off-white to bright red. Other high-fat salmon include the Coho or silver salmon, with its firm-textured, pink to red-orange flesh, and the sockeye or red salmon [which is highly prized for canning] with its firm, deep red flesh. Not as fatty as the preceding species are the pink or humpback salmon — the smallest, most delicately flavored of the Pacific varieties — and the chum or dog salmon, which is distinguished by having the lightest color and lowest fat content. Pacific salmon are in season from spring through fall. The population of the once-abundant Atlantic salmon has diminished greatly over the years because of industrial pollution of both North American and European tributaries. The Atlantic salmon has a high-fat flesh that's pink and succulent. Canada provides most of the Atlantic salmon, which is in season from summer to early winter. Depending on the variety, salmon is sold whole or in fillets or steaks. It's also available canned and as smoked salmon which comes in a variety of styles. Without going to deeply into the subject you should know that smoked salmon is simply fresh salmon that has undergone a smoking process, usually by one of two methods — hot-smoking or cold-smoking. Hot-smoking is a process by which the fish is smoked from 6 to 12 hours at temperatures ranging from 120° to 180°F. The time and temperature depend on the size of the fish, how close it is to the source of smoke and the degree of flavor desired. In cold-smoking, a temperature of 70° to 90°F is maintained and the fish might remain in the smokehouse for anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks. There are many types of smoked salmon. Indian-cure salmon is brined fish that has been cold-smoked for up to 2 weeks, which results in a form of salmon jerky. Kippered salmon — U.S. style — is a chunk, steak or fillet that has been soaked in a mild brine and hot-smoked. It's usually made from Chinook salmon that has been dyed red. European kippered salmon differs in that it's a whole salmon that has been split before being brined and cold-smoked. Lox is brine-cured cold-smoked salmon, much of which is slightly saltier than other smoked salmon. Some lox, however, has had sugar added to the brine, which produces a less salty product. Lox is a favorite in American-Jewish cuisine, particularly when served with bagels and cream cheese. Nova or Nova Scotia salmon is an idiom used in the eastern United States that broadly describes cold-smoked salmon. Scotch-smoked, Danish-smoked and Irish-smoked salmon are all geographical references to cold-smoked Atlantic salmon; whereas the Pacific species — usually Coho or Chinook — treated in this manner is generally simply labeled smoked salmon. The increasingly popular bright red salmon roe [see CAVIAR] is readily available in most supermarkets. Fresh salmon is integral to some of the world's most famous dishes, including Gravlax and Coulibiac. It can be served as a main course, in salads, as a spread or dip...its uses are many. All salmon are high in protein as well as a rich source of vitamin A, the B-group vitamins and Omega-3 oils. Gravlax with Mustard Sauce This Swedish specialty of raw salmon cured in a salt-sugar-dill mixture is prized around the world. It's sliced paper-thin and served on dark bread as an appetizer, on an open-faced sandwich or as part of a smorgasbord, often accompanied by a dill-mustard sauce. Gravlax can usually be found in gourmet markets or specialty fish markets. It can be stored, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to a week. For gravlax: One 2-3 lb. fresh salmon fillet [preferably center piece, skin on] 1 cup salt 1 cup sugar 2 Tablespoons cracked white peppercorns 3 bunches fresh dill, stems included For mustard sauce: 1 Tablespoon sweet mustard 1 teaspoon French mustard 2 teaspoon sugar 1 1/2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar Salt and pepper 3/4 cup salad oil 1/4 cup chopped dill Method Make gravlax: Mix salt, sugar, and white peppercorns. Take a handful and rub it on both sides of the salmon. Place the salmon in a dish, and sprinkle the rest of the mix on top. Cover the salmon with dill, and let it stand for 6 hours at room temperature. Refrigerate for 24-30 hours, depending on how thick the salmon is. Make mustard sauce: Mix the mustard, sugar, and vinegar, and season with pinches of salt and pepper. Mix in the oil while you pour it in a steady stream. When the sauce has a mayonnaise-like consistency, stir in chopped dill. Slice the salmon off the skin in thin slices, and place them on a platter. Cut the skin in pieces, approximately 1/2" wide, and blacken them in a very hot cast-iron skillet. Decorate platter with lemon, dill, and skin. Cook’s Notes: • Since the salmon in this recipe will be cured, and not cooked by heat, it is essential that you use only fresh, highest quality fish. • Slice the gravlax as thinly as possible, using the longest, sharpest knife you have. I would suggest a gentle, gliding motion so that you don't crush the fish. • When the gravlax has finished curing, cut it into smaller, more manageable pieces, and wrap each piece tightly in plastic wrap. The pieces should then be refrigerated or frozen. Gravlax keeps up to 6 days in the refrigerator or up to 2 months in the freezer. tom saaristo © Thomas Saaristo All Rights Reserved tom@tomsaaristo.com |